Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Pork Intestine Rice Noodles - Bai Jia Fei Chang Fen

Pork intestine (fei chang) is the starting point of some of the most loved local dishes in Sichuan. It is stewed, stir fried, stirred into hot pot, adds richness to dishes like bean soup, and gets the dry pot treatment, among others. I once watched a couple of guys buying a huge length of it in the supermarket with the obvious anticipation that one of my compatriots might show picking out a top grade steak. I get why it is so popular - there is a chewy outside and a tender inside to the organ that gives it both absorbency and 'kou gan' (mouthfeel), but I only order it at reputable places since it has to be cleaned and prepared carefully or the barnyard notes get a little too much for my taste.

A popular way to eat fei chang is in soup with rice noodles - fei chang fen. Many of the shops selling fei chang fen in Chengdu advertise Bai Jia style. We went to Bai Jia Village in Shuangliu to try the original. Besides noodles, we sampled a few of their other dishes prepared with pork intestine.

By the door, as is typical with fei chang fen shops, was a guo kui station. Guo kui is the traditional accompaniment to fei chang fen. My host said that during the holiday, there was a half hour lineup for this guo kui.


The guo kui was nicely browned but not too oily, and tender and flaky. There was not a lot of meat filling but we didn't miss it. It did complement the bowl of rice noodles well. We ordered the rice noodles without hot sauce, but many people like to get them spicy.


The first dish to land on the table was cold mixed fei chang (凉拌肥肠). Spicy, salty, delicious.


We then dipped into a bowl of 'stewed knotted intestine soup' (冒结子汤). My table companions were impressed with its fragrance.


Fragrant crispy intestine (香酥 肥肠 ) that had been sliced into rings and deep fried, one of my favourite dishes of the day:


Dry pot style (干涡 肥肠 ), one of the dishes that really impressed me with the kitchen's cooking skill. Besides the fei chang, vegetables, and hot pepper there were other flavourful touches like reconstituted dried mushrooms and ginger. All of the components really worked well together.


Mouthwatering intestine (口水 肥肠 ) lived up to its name. It was spicy but well balanced.


Last but not least, intestine steamed in rice meal (粉蒸 肥肠 ), which melted in the mouth.


Storefront:


Name: Bai Jia Gao Ji Fei Chang Fen, Original Shop
Name and Address in Chinese: 白家高记 肥肠 粉总店, 成都 双流白家镇新街 136 号

7 comments:

  1. 这么多年了,一直坚持写博客,真是辛苦你了。我偶尔过来看看,也看了很多年了,呵呵呵。

    你绝对比成都本地人还成都,你太牛逼了!我觉得成都旅游局什么的应该大力推广你的博客。

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  2. I am a Chengduer living overseas, when I miss my home town sometimes i will drop by here to see what food is popular and what Chengdu people like to eat at the moment. Thanks for recording the local food! And I agree with Paul upstairs that the travel department should promote your blog to tourists from overseas!

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  3. Why so few comments!!!!!

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  4. 哇哦,太巴适了嘛!好想吃哦但吃不到,哎。请多发传统成都地方特色美食的照片嘛。

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  5. 口水啊!!想念家乡菜!!

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  6. We only eat the goat/sheep small intestine here in Greece. Is this pork's intestine the small one? Looks pretty thick!:)

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  7. ah guo kui is so hard to find now in the inner city.

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