"Server! Chicken heart!" commands a girl from of a cluster of hip young things around a vat of Bo Bo Ji (Bo Bo chicken). The big earthenware bowls are filled with skewered chicken treats like wing tips, intestines, gizzards, or chunks of neck and also sliced vegetables, cocktail sausages, and various tofu products. Like shao kao (barbecue) and chuanchuan (hot pot's poor cousin), you pay by the skewer.